Common roofing questions

A typical pitched tile roof in the UK lasts 40 to 60 years. Natural slate can last well over 100 years if maintained, while felted flat roofs are usually 15 to 25 years. EPDM rubber and GRP fibreglass flat roofs are typically rated for 25 to 30+ years.

Common signs include multiple slipped or cracked tiles, sagging sections, daylight visible from inside the loft, recurring leaks despite repairs, and tiles that are visibly flaking or porous. If repairs are becoming frequent, a survey will tell you whether replacement is the more economical long-term option.

Most UK roofs benefit from a visual inspection every two to three years and after any major storm. A quick look from the ground using binoculars is usually enough to spot slipped tiles, broken ridges or visible damage.

Yes — natural Welsh slate roofs commonly last 80 to 100+ years if the underlay, lead and battens are maintained alongside them. Concrete tile roofs rarely reach this age; they typically need replacing at 40 to 60 years even when individual tiles still look intact.

A full re-roof on a typical UK semi-detached home is roughly £6,000 to £12,000 depending on size, pitch, materials, scaffolding access and roofline replacement. Larger detached homes and natural slate installs can run higher. Always insist on a written, fixed quote rather than an estimate.

Small repairs — a few replacement tiles, ridge re-bedding, single flashing fixes — typically run £150 to £450 in the Coventry area including scaffolding or tower access where needed. Larger repairs involving leadwork, valleys or chimney stacks usually fall between £400 and £1,200.

Reputable local roofers do not charge for a survey or written quote. If a company asks for a fee just to give you a price, that is a strong signal to get a second opinion from someone who does not.

Roof size and pitch, the material chosen (concrete tile, clay tile, slate, metal), how many storeys, scaffolding requirements, removal and disposal of the old roof, replacement of underlay and battens, plus any extras like dormers, valleys, leadwork or rooflights.

It depends on the property. Concrete tiles are the most common because they balance cost and lifespan well. Clay tiles last longer and look better on period homes. Natural slate is the most premium and can last 100 years. EPDM and GRP are the leading options for flat roofs.

Clay tiles last longer (60 to 100 years versus 40 to 60 for concrete), are less prone to becoming porous, and tend to keep their colour. Concrete tiles are cheaper upfront and heavier, which can be an advantage on exposed roofs. Clay is usually the better choice on period properties.

A properly installed EPDM rubber roof in the UK is typically rated for 25 to 30 years and often performs longer. EPDM is one-piece membrane on small roofs, has very few seams, and is highly resistant to UV — which is why it has largely replaced felt for new flat roofs.

The fascia is the vertical board that runs along the edge of the roof — it's what the gutter is fixed to. The soffit is the horizontal board underneath the fascia, sealing the roof's overhang. Together they protect the roof timbers and keep wildlife out of the loft.

Most leaks come from one of four sources: slipped or cracked tiles, failed lead flashing around chimneys and abutments, blocked or split valleys, and tired underlay that is no longer shedding water. Tracing the path is the first job — water often emerges several feet from where it actually entered.

Start in the loft on a wet day with a torch — look for active drips, dark stains on rafters and damp patches on the underlay. The entry point is usually higher up the roof than the visible water trail. From outside, check the area directly above and uphill for slipped tiles or failed flashing.

A light covering is mostly cosmetic. Heavy moss is a problem: it holds moisture against the tiles, accelerates degradation, blocks gutters and valleys, and can lift tiles on the windward side. It is worth removing periodically — but never with high-pressure jet washing on older or porous tiles.

Chimneys are the single most common source of roof leaks. Usual causes: failed lead flashing where the stack meets the roof, eroded mortar between the bricks (repointing needed), cracked or missing chimney caps, and porous brickwork. A proper repair usually combines lead replacement with repointing.

Repair is usually the right call when the underlying covering, underlay and timbers are sound and the problem is localised. Replacement makes sense when the underlay has perished, multiple tiles are porous, you are paying for repairs every year, or the roof is over 50 years old and has never been touched.

Like-for-like roof replacements usually fall under permitted development and do not need planning permission. You will need permission if the property is listed, in a conservation area, or you are changing the roof shape, height or material to something significantly different.

Yes if more than 25% of the roof covering is being replaced. Building regs cover thermal insulation, structural integrity and breathable underlay. A reputable roofer will handle the building-control notification on your behalf rather than leave it to you.

Yes, but it usually requires planning permission and structural assessment because the load and roof shape are changing. The job involves a new timber structure, sometimes new wall plates, and full building regs compliance — a meaningful step up from a flat-roof renewal.

Storm damage and accidental damage are usually covered, subject to your policy excess. Wear and tear, gradual leaks and lack of maintenance are not covered. If you make a claim, take photographs from a safe distance and keep the original damaged tiles where possible — insurers often ask.

Yes. UK winters rarely stop roofing work entirely — most days are workable as long as it is not actively raining hard or windy enough to make scaffolding unsafe. Cold dry days are fine for tile work; heavy rain, ice and high winds delay jobs by a day or two at most.

A typical UK semi-detached re-roof takes 4 to 7 working days — a day for scaffolding, two to three days to strip and re-lay, plus time for chimney work and clean-up. Larger detached properties or complex roofs run 10 days or more. Weather can add a day here or there.

Light rain is fine for inspection and stripping; heavy rain stops new tiling and felt work because the deck has to go down dry. Active leaks can usually be temporarily weatherproofed in rain, though, so a roofer should still come out for an emergency.